Between 1939 and 1945, the span of the Second World War, there was no shortage of tragedies. For the average Australian citizen, however, the 1940 Canberra Air Disaster was uniquely unfortunate, carrying a heavy loss. On August 13th 1940, a Lockheed Hudson Bomber carrying multiple ministers and chiefs, as well as the aircraft’s crew, crashed into what is now the Fairbairn Pine Plantation.
Ten people died in the plane crash. Four of them, Brigadier Geoffrey Street, James Fairbairn, Sir Henry Gullett, and General Sir Cyril Brudenell White, were massively important members of the government of Australia, who were flying to a meeting regarding resource allocation for the ongoing war. It was still relatively early on in the war, just one year in, so the loss of these people was particularly tragic, sending the country and government into mourning. This event is also cited as one of the core reasons Robert Menzies’ government fell in 1941.
Now, close to nine decades later, the site of this disaster has been transformed into a walking trail, spanning between 3.2 and 5.6 kilometres depending on how deep down the trail you walk. Not too far into the walk, there lies a memorial made of granite, a flat slab in the shape of the plane which crashed into the capital, as well as a plaque carrying the names of the deceased and the history of the tragedy.
This site is in slightly poor condition, though the National Capital Authority tries its best to keep the path clean, as it is owned by the Territory and Municipal Services, who have neglected the land greatly. The park sits between, rather fittingly, an abandoned paintball field and a highly dangerous military training ground. The memorial sits beneath hundreds of pine trees, swaying in the chill Canberra wind, adding to the eerie atmosphere the park carries.
The Track Itself
As most walks in Canberra start, you pull off a main road, Pialligo Avenue, finding a niche dirt road with a few car parks. You will be met with a metal gate, which remains regrettably locked, barring access by car but allowing hikers to walk past easily. You will walk past the abandoned paintball centre, full of abandoned crates, cars, and obstacles, all of which were supplied the terrain for combat.
The atmosphere is cold and misty, carrying a level of eerie tranquillity similar to waking up too early and reading in bed. A dirt track, the ACT Speedway, will likely be barren, with construction devices scattered around the dried mud. If you are lucky, it may be misty, as the grounds do lend themself to the sprinkle of brume, though this will only further obscure the path that can be difficult to find without a clear map.
Walking past the speedway, a long metal fence, topped with barbed wire, stands defiantly against the adventurers who make their way to the trail. Signs reading ‘Danger’ and ‘Keep Out’ in bold red letters make it clear that the area is fenced off for good reason. The Department of Defence has placed a Military target area next to the memorial, which may be fitted with live firing and real explosive devices, calling to mind the horrors which come with war.
Finally, taking a left as you walk with the fence, you come to the memorial, a dissatisfying yet grave travelling island of concrete and granite, which holds the aforementioned plaques of history, as well as the names of those who died serving the country. It is somewhat disappointing, not nearly as grand as the memorial feels it should be, yet it still carries the heavy weight and history, bringing to mind feelings of sanctity, as though the site carries not holiness, but importance.
If you decide to walk past the memorial, continuing along the road, the trail continues. Because it has been slightly mismanaged, the trail feels as though it is being reclaimed by nature, with little other than the occasional man-made structure or fence being within view. There is a mystical sensation that flows through these woods, with a creek passing along the trail adding to it. Moss and foliage are crushed underfoot, pushing the smell of dampness into the air. Though the trail carries the burden of history, death, and danger, it also holds a unique and lovely mystique that allows the hiker to take a deep breath and enjoy the beauty surrounding them.
Nature trails, especially those with such rich histories, act as the sparks and fuel to start conversations, have a nice picnic with the family, or engage in a nature-based hobby. There is nothing more important to a community than having third places, such as trails, to help engagement begin. Despite the tragedy and its unkempt nature, the Air Disaster Memorial Trail is a remarkable place to connect with others.
